KATHMANDU:
Record-holding Sherpa climber Pem Dorjee has authored a book chronicling his journey from the foothills of the Himalayas to the summit of Mt Everest-and beyond.
Born in Chyangba village in Solukhumbu, Pem Dorjee Sherpa co-authored 'Beyond Everest: One Sherpa's Summit and Hope for Nepal', a heartfelt memoir sharing his inspirational life story. Written with Corrine Richardson, the book highlights Sherpas' courage, resilience, and determination.
"I wanted to depict the real-life struggles of a climber who not only conquers the world's highest peak but also overcomes poverty and adversity," said Pem, now based in Ann Arbor, Michigan.
Through his book, Pem aims to break stereotypes about Sherpas, often perceived merely as porters or guides. "They are the true heroes-serving as porters, guides, icefall doctors, and sirdars," he said. The book also offers readers a glimpse into Sherpa culture and traditions.
For Sherpas, climbing Everest is more than a dream-it's a necessity tied to livelihood. "They push their limits in the death zone, facing unimaginable challenges," Pem explained. "Yet they have hopes and dreams, just like everyone else."
'Beyond Everest: One Sherpa's Summit and Hope for Nepal' tells the improbable story of a Sherpa who escaped poverty by summiting Everest. The records he and his three-person Sherpa-Newari team set-including one involving a forbidden love story-paved the way for him to leave Nepal and build a life of security. It's a raw, authentic account of overcoming generational cycles of abuse, poverty, alcoholism, and child labor, showcasing the tenacity needed to hold onto a dream.
Pem Dorjee and Moni Mulepati made history as the first couple to marry atop Mt. Everest on May 30, 2005. Born in 1982 in Solukhumbu, Pem had already summited Everest before their wedding climb, while Moni, a Newar born in 1981, developed an interest in mountaineering while studying in Thailand. The couple now run a business and live in Ann Arbor with their daughters, Pelzom and Mezel.
Despite their success abroad, Pem remains deeply connected to Nepal. After earthquakes devastated his village in 2015, he raised funds for reconstruction and a hydroelectric project.
Their story, as told in 'Beyond Everest', is a testament to love conquering all-whether towering peaks or societal barriers. Today, Pem continues humanitarian efforts to uplift the Sherpa community.
At its core, 'Beyond Everest' is the unlikely story of a Sherpa's rise from poverty to success after two Everest summits. Fleeing an abusive, alcoholic father and a harsh subsistence farming life, 12-year-old Pem ran away to work along the Everest route. Starting as a teahouse helper in Namche and Tengboche, he eventually became a porter, carrying loads heavier than his own body up the treacherous trail to Base Camp.
At 22, he joined Wongchu Sherpa's Peak Promotion team, supporting IMAX filmmaker David Breashears' $6.5 million Everest expedition. Despite being a novice climber, Pem braved the Khumbu Icefall-helmetless and in unfamiliar crampons-to assist Nawang Sherpa, an amputee attempting to summit with a prosthetic leg. Their success made Nawang the first to achieve this feat.
The following year, Pem summited again as part of Moni Mulepati's Rotary Nepal Expedition. The underfunded team faced relentless challenges: a three-day snowstorm, lost oxygen tanks, Moni's snow blindness, and a helicopter crash during evacuation. But their greatest hurdle was cultural-Pem and Moni's secret marriage defied Newari traditions, risking family estrangement.
Their summit and elopement thrust them into the spotlight, transforming Pem from an anonymous porter into a recognized mountaineer and Moni into a trailblazer for Nepali women. The publicity opened doors for them to immigrate to the U.S., where they faced new struggles-financial instability, cultural alienation, and balancing family responsibilities in Nepal with their new life.
The book also transcends typical climbing narratives, delving into Sherpa culture, economic hardship, and the moral complexities of adventure tourism. It's a story of survival, ambition, and redemption-from Pem's childhood in Chyangba to his journey as an immigrant striving to uplift his village.
Corrine Richardson's collaboration brings depth to Pem's story, blending adventure with socioeconomic insights often absent from Everest tales. The book sheds light on Nepal's harsh realities: child marriage, sex trafficking, and villages still disconnected from modern infrastructure.
"Many Sherpas share similar struggles, but few stories are told," Pem writes. "Language barriers and lack of education keep these narratives hidden." Richardson's firsthand experience in Nepal helped bridge that gap, crafting a memoir as much about cultural resilience as mountaineering.
'Beyond Everest' is a compelling recommendation not just for adventure enthusiasts but for readers interested in poverty, immigration, and human perseverance. Its blend of personal triumph and social commentary makes it a standout choice for book clubs and libraries alike.