KATHMANDU, MAY 16
A 37-year-old Sherpa climber from Solukhumbu has made history by becoming the first kidney transplant survivor to successfully summit Mt Everest.
Pemba Sherpa, who underwent kidney transplant surgery in 2022, reached the summit at approximately 9:30 AM on May 14, confirmed Pemba Gelje Sherpa, Managing Director of Expeditions High Mountain Treks.
Thaneswar Guragain, Guinness World Records' official representative in Nepal, verified Pemba Sherpa as the first kidney transplant recipient to achieve this feat.
"It was a challenging and extraordinary climb," Pemba told The Himalayan Times by phone after returning to base camp this afternoon.
Diagnosed with kidney failure in 2020 upon returning from Japan-where he had worked for six years-Pemba's condition deteriorated rapidly. "Both kidneys stopped functioning, and my father, Ang Gyaljen, immediately donated one of his," he shared. The transplant and recovery process took nearly 30 months.
Determined to test his limits post-surgery, Pemba climbed Lobuche Peak in 2024 as preparation for Everest. "I thought, 'If I push myself, I can climb Everest one day,'" he said.
On May 14, Pemba summited alongside American climbers Michael Rudolph Gutwein II and Saurabh Bhasin, Nepali climber Sajan Dangol, and IFMGA guides Pemba Ongchu Sherpa and Gyalje Sherpa. Additional team members, including Ngima Gyalje Sherpa, Lopsang Sherpa, Chebi Bhote, and Mingma Chhiri Sherpa, also reached the summit.
"Pemba's dedication was truly remarkable," said IFMGA guide Pemba Wongchu after the climb.
Expeditions High Mountain Treks provided full logistical support, while Yeti Group's Chair, record-holding climber and tourism entrepreneur Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa offered additional assistance.
"Pemba has proven that transplant survivors can defy limits and achieve their dreams," Lhakpa Sonam said, hailing Pemba as "an inspiration and a beacon of hope for countless others."
Reflecting on his journey, Pemba acknowledged the struggles of dialysis and kidney failure, vowing never to return to that pain. Now, three years post-transplant, he stands as the only kidney transplant survivor to conquer Everest.
"I've shown that even with medical challenges, you can dream big," Pemba said, expressing gratitude to his family, friends, and supporters.
